Exploring Èze, France: A Day Trip to the Hilltop Village and Hiking the Nietzsche Path

Èze, a picturesque medieval village perched above the French Riviera, is a place that often appears on travelers’ must-visit lists when exploring the Côte d’Azur. For those who enjoy both culture and nature, Èze offers a charming blend of scenic views, narrow cobbled streets, and stunning landscapes. During our recent European trip, we decided to spend a day hiking the Nietzsche Path—a well-known trail connecting Èze to the coastal town of Èze-sur-Mer—and explore the village itself.

While I had high expectations for Èze, I’ll be honest: it didn’t quite live up to the hype. Don’t get me wrong, it’s beautiful, but during peak season, the village can feel more like a bustling tourist trap than a quiet retreat. If you’re planning to visit during summer, be prepared for large crowds, narrow pathways, and a hectic atmosphere. If you’re looking for a more peaceful experience, I’d recommend considering other options like hiking the Cap Ferrat trail or spending the day in Antibes instead.

However, for those who are still intrigued by Èze, let me share some insider tips on what you can expect, and why I found the hike down the Nietzsche Path to be one of the highlights of our visit.

Where Is Èze, France?

Located on the French Riviera, Èze is set on a hilltop about 1,400 feet above the Mediterranean Sea, offering panoramic views of the sparkling coastline. The town’s elevated position makes it a popular stop for tourists wanting to capture the sweeping vistas of the Côte d’Azur. But before you go, be sure not to confuse Èze with Èze-sur-Mer, the small seaside village located directly below it.

The Nietzsche Path, a historic hiking trail, connects Èze with Èze-sur-Mer. The path, named after philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, winds up the mountainside, offering a physically demanding yet rewarding climb.

Why Visit Èze?

Èze is a magical place, famous for its medieval charm, cobblestone streets, high-end shopping, and exceptional dining. The village is home to beautiful gardens and stunning viewpoints, offering unforgettable coastal panoramas. But its primary claim to fame is the Nietzsche Path, which Nietzsche himself frequented while drafting his philosophical work Thus Spoke Zarathustra.

While the village may be a little overcrowded at times, the beauty and history of the area make it an essential stop for many.

How To Get There

We stayed in Villefranche-sur-Mer, a small town just west of Èze, and found there were a few ways to get to the hilltop village:

By Car: If you’re up for an adventure, driving along the Moyenne Corniche mountain road provides scenic views, though parking in Èze can be a challenge.
By Uber: We opted for an Uber, which took us about 20 minutes and was the most convenient option, considering the narrow and winding roads.
By Train: If you’re coming from any town along the French Riviera, you can take the train to Èze-sur-Mer station and then hike up the Nietzsche Path. Alternatively, you can take a bus from the coast up to the village.
By Bus: There are buses connecting Nice with Èze, offering a hassle-free ride up to the hilltop.

Tips for Visiting Èze

Arrive Early or Late: Èze is a popular tourist destination, especially during peak hours (10 a.m. to 3 p.m.). If you want to avoid the crowds, aim to visit either early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
Make Reservations: If you’re interested in dining at one of the luxury restaurants, like Château Eza or La Chèvre d’Or, make sure to book your table well in advance.
Shopping & Galleries: For those looking for unique souvenirs, Èze is an excellent place for high-end shopping. The Fragonard Perfume Factory is especially worth a visit if you’re interested in perfume-making.
Take in the Views: The views from Èze are breathtaking. Don’t forget your camera—there are plenty of scenic overlooks throughout the village, and it’s one of the best places to snap those Instagram-worthy shots.

The Exotic Garden of Èze

No visit to Èze is complete without a trip to the Exotic Garden (Jardin Exotique d’Èze), a botanical garden perched at the top of the hill. The garden is home to a variety of cacti, succulents, and Mediterranean plants, but the real draw is the incredible panoramic view. From here, you can see all the way to the Esterel Mountains and the Gulf of Saint-Tropez on a clear day.

If you plan to visit, be sure to get there early or late in the day to avoid the crowds. The garden opens at 9 a.m., and tickets can be purchased on-site or in advance. If you’re interested in a guided experience, there are excellent walking tours that include a visit to the garden.

Hiking the Nietzsche Path

For those looking for a more active experience, the Nietzsche Path is a must-do. This steep, rugged trail connects Èze-sur-Mer to Èze, winding its way up the mountainside and offering stunning coastal views along the way. The trail is about 2.4 miles long and typically takes 1.5 to 2 hours to hike uphill. If you’re not up for the climb, you can always take the trail down and catch the train from Èze-sur-Mer.

Though the path is relatively short, it’s a tough hike due to its steep incline and loose rocks. Proper footwear is a must (I wore my trusty Birkenstocks, but sturdy sneakers or hiking boots are a better choice for most people). The path is also a mix of shaded and sunny sections, so be sure to bring sunscreen and plenty of water.

One of the highlights of our hike was a small side trail that led to a hidden waterfall, offering a refreshing break from the sun. If you’re looking for a peaceful spot to take in the beauty of the surroundings, this is a perfect detour.

Hiking Down the Nietzsche Path

For our return journey, we decided to hike down the Nietzsche Path rather than up. The descent was much easier and took about an hour. Along the way, we encountered hikers heading uphill, some of whom were woefully unprepared for the steep climb. If you’re thinking of hiking up, make sure you’re in good physical condition and bring the right gear.

At the bottom of the trail, we arrived at Èze-sur-Mer and caught the train back to Villefranche-sur-Mer. Afterward, we rewarded ourselves with a relaxing afternoon at the beach.

Final Thoughts on Èze

While Èze is undeniably beautiful, it’s not the tranquil retreat I had imagined. If you’re visiting during peak season, be prepared for the crowds and the touristy vibe. However, if you plan ahead and make time to explore its charming streets and breathtaking views, Èze is still a worthwhile stop. The Nietzsche Path, with its mix of natural beauty and challenging terrain, is one of the best ways to experience the area. Whether you’re hiking down to Èze-sur-Mer or just exploring the village itself, this charming hilltop destination is a perfect addition to any French Riviera itinerary.