Essaouira: A Peaceful Retreat on Morocco’s Atlantic Coast
Nestled along Morocco’s Atlantic coastline, Essaouira is a charming city that offers a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of larger cities like Marrakech. Known for its whitewashed buildings with blue doors, winding alleys, and ancient fortifications, Essaouira is as picturesque as it gets. The city’s unique beauty has even made it a popular backdrop for films like John Wick, Kingdom of Heaven, and Game of Thrones.
After our time in Marrakech, we were eager for a quieter, more laid-back destination, and Essaouira fit the bill perfectly. A few days spent here provided the perfect balance of relaxation and exploration. Here’s everything you need to know about getting to Essaouira, what we loved, and a few things to consider during your visit.
Getting to Essaouira
The easiest way to get to Essaouira from Marrakech is by bus. We opted for CTM, a reliable company known for comfortable seating and a smooth ride. The bus journey took around three hours, with a 20-minute stop halfway for a break. Tickets cost about 324 MAD for two round-trip tickets. The scenery along the way was beautiful, passing through rocky deserts, rural farms, and quaint towns.
While buses are the most popular and affordable option, you can also fly into Essaouira’s small airport, but it only services a few destinations. Renting a car is another option, though we found it more hassle-free to stick with the bus. Traffic can be unpredictable, and driving in Morocco can be tricky, especially for foreigners.
Essaouira: Easy to Explore on Foot
Once we arrived in Essaouira, the first thing we noticed was how walkable the city is. The journey from the bus station to the medina was a pleasant 20-minute walk. Compared to the chaos of Marrakech, Essaouira felt quieter, cleaner, and more peaceful. The streets were spacious and well-maintained, making it easy to stroll around with our luggage.
The city is small, so apart from the walk from the bus station to the medina, there aren’t many long walks to take, unless you’re in the mood to explore. One thing we did notice, especially outside the medina, was that people seemed to stare at us more than in other cities. It felt more like curiosity than anything else, and we never felt unsafe during our time here.
Taxis in Essaouira: No Need for Bargaining
In many parts of Morocco, taxi fares are negotiable, which can be stressful for travelers. However, Essaouira is different. The city has a fixed fare for taxis within the city limits—just 8 MAD (9 MAD at night). This flat rate made it much easier to get around without worrying about being overcharged. We simply hopped into a blue taxi, paid cash, and didn’t need to haggle over prices. Just be sure to bring exact change, as drivers may not have enough to break large bills.
A Local, Authentic Medina
One of the highlights of Essaouira is its medina. Unlike the heavily commercialized medinas in cities like Marrakech, Essaouira’s medina feels more local. There are fewer tourist shops and more businesses that cater to the daily needs of locals—markets, repair shops, and small cafés. The atmosphere was relaxed, with vendors being far less pushy than in other cities, making it a pleasure to explore.
Though the medina is small, we still got lost a few times, which was part of the fun. After a few hours of wandering, we got the hang of the layout and didn’t need to rely on a map as much. The laid-back nature of the area, combined with the friendly locals, made our time here feel incredibly enjoyable.
Cats Everywhere!
If you’re a cat lover, you’ll be in heaven in Essaouira. The city is home to countless cats, who roam the streets, nap on carpets, and hang out in cafés. They seem to run the town, and the locals have a soft spot for them. If you’re not a cat person, though, you might be in for a surprise—cats are everywhere!
Must-See Sights in Essaouira
The medina is home to most of the city’s key attractions. Place Moulay Hassan, a lively square, leads to a small opening where you can access a rocky beach below the old fort walls. From here, a quick walk through the Bab El Marsa gate takes you to the bustling port, filled with colorful fishing boats and seafood vendors. While the port is interesting to visit, the smell can be overwhelming, and eating there isn’t recommended due to some questionable eateries that may overcharge.
One of the most memorable experiences in Essaouira was watching the sunset from the ramparts of the old fort. The views of the Atlantic Ocean as the sun dipped below the horizon were breathtaking. Entry to the ramparts is free, but they close after 7 PM, so try to get there a little earlier to claim a good spot. Despite the rules, no one seemed to mind if you stayed after closing time, but be prepared to leave once the sun has set.
Relaxing on the Beach
When we weren’t exploring the medina, we enjoyed long walks along Essaouira’s beach. The strong Atlantic winds and crashing waves made it an ideal spot for people-watching. Just be aware that the sun can be stronger than it feels, so we recommend bringing sunscreen, and a scarf or hat to protect yourself from the wind.
Final Thoughts on Essaouira
Essaouira was the perfect antidote to the intensity of Marrakech. The city’s relaxed vibe, friendly people, and mix of cultural and natural beauty made it one of our favorite stops in Morocco. While a few days are enough to see the main sights, we recommend staying longer if you want to truly unwind and take in the peaceful atmosphere.
Whether you’re a history lover, a foodie, or simply in need of a quiet coastal retreat, Essaouira offers a refreshing and charming experience on Morocco’s Atlantic coast.
