A Journey from Yerevan to Tbilisi: Our Sleeper Train Adventure

Traveling between Armenia and Georgia offers an exciting opportunity to experience two rich cultures, and with the two capitals just a short distance apart, it’s a great idea to explore both. For our trip, we decided to take the overnight sleeper train that connects Yerevan and Tbilisi. Here’s how our experience went, along with some useful tips for anyone planning a similar journey.

Buying Tickets: Station vs Online

Although you can purchase tickets for the train online, the website isn’t the most user-friendly. We found it quite tricky to navigate, so we opted for buying our tickets in person at the Yerevan Railway Station, where the train departs. For those coming from Tbilisi, tickets can be purchased at the Tbilisi Railway Station.

The price for a third-class ticket was 15,615 AMD (around $40), and we were told cash was the only accepted payment method, despite signs indicating credit cards were an option. We recommend purchasing your tickets a few days in advance, as there is a chance that third-class seats could sell out, especially during peak travel periods.

Choosing Your Class: First, Second, or Third

The sleeper train offers three classes of travel, each with different levels of comfort and privacy:

• First Class: For the most privacy, first-class tickets offer a private two-bed cabin that can be locked for extra security. It’s ideal for those seeking quiet and seclusion.
• Second Class: This option features two bunk beds with four total sleeping spaces. It’s similar to first class but is better suited for groups of more than two people.
• Third Class: We chose third class, which has an open compartment with two bunk beds. While there’s less privacy compared to the other classes, it’s a great choice for social travelers. We ended up chatting with a friendly Uruguayan-Brazilian couple and sharing snacks throughout the night.

Comfort on Board: Surprisingly Pleasant

Once on board, an attendant provided pillows and blankets to help us settle in. The top bunk required a bit of maneuvering to lower, and the bottom bunk served as a seat during the day. One downside was the lack of space between the top bunk and the overhead luggage rack, which made sitting up challenging, especially for shorter passengers.

Storage space was plentiful, with a large area under the bottom bunk for luggage and a smaller rack by the bed for smaller items. The bed itself was surprisingly comfortable, complete with a night light and USB outlets (for the top bunk). We found the blankets clean, although a little stained, and the pillow was soft and cozy.

One minor issue was the temperature. Our compartment was a bit stuffy, though we suspect it was an isolated incident, as other sections seemed to have working air conditioning. Unfortunately, when we asked the attendant about the issue, the response was a shrug and a simple “no,” leaving us to deal with the heat until the temperature dropped later on.

Bringing Snacks: Essential for the Journey

While the train does have water fountains, there’s no food service onboard, and the train doesn’t stop long enough for a meal break. We recommend eating a light meal before departure and packing snacks like fruit and cookies. It’s also a good idea to bring breakfast items, as you’ll arrive in Tbilisi around 7:30 AM, when most local cafes are still closed.

Restroom Facilities: Functional, but Not Perfect

The train has two toilets per carriage, which, while not spotless, were functional. There was soap available, and we were pleased to find a small towel included in our sleeping kit. However, there was no toilet paper, so be sure to bring your own tissues or wet wipes for comfort.

Passport Control: A Smooth Process

Since the train crosses an international border, there are two passport checks: one when leaving Armenia and another when entering Georgia. We were woken up around 2:30 AM for the Armenian border control, where an officer took photos of each passenger and checked documents at our assigned bunks.

When crossing into Georgia, we had to disembark the train and line up to show our passports and visas. The process was relatively quick, though it could take up to two hours, depending on the border control situation. Overall, the officers were polite and professional, and the process didn’t cause us too much stress.

Is the Sleeper Train Worth It?

Considering the cost of flights is much higher, the train is an affordable and comfortable way to travel between Yerevan and Tbilisi. Renting a car could also be an option, but the roads are challenging, and it requires a lot of driving experience. Another alternative is taking a marshrutka (a shared minibus), but our experience with them in Georgia left us feeling uneasy due to the reckless driving.

The sleeper train offers a fun and budget-friendly way to travel. The only thing to be aware of is the midnight passport checks, but that’s all part of the adventure. If you’re traveling between these two capitals, we highly recommend the sleeper train for a unique and memorable journey.